Bees are sipping from the dogwood blooms out my window, and I hope each of my wonderful readers is enjoying a glorious spring or autumn morning – and that the continuous summer is not too scorching for those readers residing along the equator. Since today is Good Friday – and a blessed one to those who observe the day, and a happy day to those who do not – I thought I would borrow my thought of last spring – sharing about Portugal’s Semana Santa (Holy Week) from Total Want of Propriety – I would dust off my nerdiness and learn about the customs of Madeira this year. This is new territory for me, as Páscoa (Easter) did not feature in Mistaken Premise – though the Bennet family was there during Semana Santa.
The more I research Portugal, the more I wonder if there might be some Portuguese blood – especially the islands of Madeira and the Azores – hiding in my ancestry. As far as I know, I’m German/Dutch/Irish, but boy howdy! do I love Portuguese history and culture. The customs leading up to Semana Santa are no exception.
It is not surprising, considering their Catholic heritage, that the traditions and festivities surrounding Páscoa in Portugal (including its territories of Madeira and the Azores) are religious in nature. Quatra-freira de Cinzas (Ash Wednesday) is the first day of a Quaresma (Lent), the forty days preceding Páscoa. This is a day of attending mass, committing yourself to the fast: in past centuries, this meant but one meal a day whilst abstaining from meats, sweets, all rich foods, and wine. Now, however, it is less stringent, and one usually abstains from but one of these or chooses another vice (e.g. cigarettes) for the duration of the fast.
Unique to Madeira are the games! The locals play balamento, where two players compete as to who can be the first to say “balamento” to their counterpart. The conditions of this game are infinitely varied – each day of a Quaresma or but the last fortnight; once a day, or once before noon and again after noon; if family, the first time they see each other upon awakening or only outside of the home, etc. – and are agreed upon ahead of time. (Some go as far as to wear masks and disguises to sneak up on their competitor.) The one with the least points on Páscoa gives the winner some torrões – a traditional sweet made of sugar and flavourings such as fruits or spices.
Another traditional game is pião, which is a type of spinning top and translates to ‘pawn’. The pião is set on a string and tossed into a grid or ring configuration drawn on the pavement, and tournaments are well attended throughout several Madeiran towns during a Quaresma.
Madeiran’s also practice many of the same customs as Portugal on Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) – where parishioners carry braided palm fronds to mass and then use them to decorate their homes. Quinta-freira Santa (Maundy Thursday) is observed with mass, communion, and foot washing ceremonies at the churches. On Sexta-freira Santa (Good Friday), some locations act out the crucifixion, and there is a large, candlelit o Enterro do Senhor (Burial of Our Lord) procession at the Sé in Funchal, followed by a traditional meal of cod, yams, and chickpeas. Over Sábado-friera Santa (Easter Saturday), congregants gather to pray and sing awaiting the resurrection.
Páscoa is greeted with praise and celebration, multiple processions, and feasting on lamb with family. Madeira has its own variant of Folar do Páscoa (the traditional Portuguese Easter bread), and they typically hide confection eggs for the children. Torrões, wine, and chocolate likewise adorn the Páscoa feast.
I hope you enjoyed this tour of Madeiran Páscoa customs. If you ever make it to the island during Carnaval, a Quaresma, or Semana Santa, please send me lots and lots of pictures! I would also like to thank you for your forbearance and support over last month’s post; it had been a rough month, medically, and I was just over it! I’m in a better place mentally, and I have started pushing for a longer-term solution – we shall see what happens.
Godspeed to you, my dear, dear readers!
Leave a Reply