Good morrow, dear readers. I hope everyone had a wonderful day with friends and family, no matter what day you might celebrate. As an American, another Christmas has passed for the Boardman clan. My dear granddaughter (and my only grandchild) has a fascination with Nativity scenes this year, reminding me of when I wish to enjoy the Madeiran part of my Portugal visit: Christmas!
Again, my dear focus reader took her red pen to Mistaken Premise, removing the wonderful traditions I learned about Christmas celebrations on the island of Madeira. According to my nerd inspired reading, the islanders go all out for Christmas, starting on the first of December and ending with intricate fireworks displays to ring in the new year (top of page: Funchal, Madeira). Many of these traditions centre around the nativity itself.
Throughout the island, businesses, municipalities, and homes create lapinhas (nativity scenes). These can be very large and elaborate and come in two forms. Indoors, one would likely find a lapinha em escandinha, or a stairstep nativity. These are built on a tabletop, in a place of prominence, with three burgundy fabric and lace draped risers. Mary, Joseph, and the shepherds, wise men, and animals are on the lower steps, all facing the baby Jesus at the top, with fruit, grain, nuts, and other offerings arrayed amongst them.
Larger lapinhas em rochinha, or rock nativities, are the ones I really want to study. These are very elaborate, sometimes incorporating the topography of the island – in the one above, the blue rocks represent the Atlantic Ocean – including the mountains, waterfalls, grottos, and even the levadas (irrigation channels throughout the Madeiran mountains, some dating to the 16th-century). Along with the more traditional cast of characters and fruit offerings, the lapinhas em rochinha frequently recreate the houses and churches of the village, and the figurines can depict locals and Bible stories with people in traditional Madeiran costumes.
Also related to the nativity are the Missas do Parto, Childbirth masses. From December 16th through the 24th, at dawn, these services symbolise the nine months of the Virgin Mary’s pregnancy. Congregants reflect and celebrate with specific songs, known as cantorias; they often wear traditional dress and perform on traditional instruments. Afterwards, family, neighbours, and visitors enjoy the customary food and drinks of Madeira’s Christmas. (For those interested, a recipe for the Honey Cake, traditionally made on December 8th and consumed during the festive season: https://blog.madeira.best/madeira-honey-cake)
The Missas do Parto culminate with the midnight mass, the Missa do Galo, Rooster Mass, as Christmas Eve transitions to Christmas Day. The unique name comes from a Madeiran folk-tale which says the rooster was the first witness and to herald baby Jesus’ birth. These services frequently include a nativity play, singing, and a candlelit procession back home.
I cannot wait to experience these fascinating customs. I have even learned of a town, Calheta, which displays dozens of lapinhas every Christmas, which is on my TBVisted list. Mayhap, I shall see you there?
Godspeed and Happy New Year to my very dear readers.
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